Are you not entertained?

Students who walk through the arch spanning two unfluted tuscan columns at the entrance to the Central University of Ecuador, the country’s oldest university, might be imagined to feel inspired by the history, the beauty, the accomplishment contained within this symbolic gateway to higher learning.

Universidad Central

But the gate is closed today, and in the intersection just outside the university’s green fields are the smoldering remnants of a burned tire, squashed lemons, torn paper, chunks of broken concrete, and rocks thrown by protestors.

Students use the gate as a focal point for their defense, keeping at bay the military-clad riot police who use urban camouflage to hide behind storefronts along the campus perimeter. The street is littered with debris, and an ambulance from another part of town crunches its tires past a molotov cocktail that explodes harmlessly in the otherwise barren intersection. Buses, taxis, and drivers have been rerouted to Quito’s other major thoroughfares, which absorb the additional traffic reluctantly.

I wrote the above description in May, while living in Quito, after witnessing police with plexiglass shields, bullet proof vests, combat helmets, and knee-high vinyl boots held to a standoff by students dressed in blue jeans, tennis shoes, t-shirts, and the occasional identity-protecting scarf.

Months later, President Rafael Correa clashed with the same police force in a scene that journalists and pundits are interpreting with difficulty. It was either a righteous protest or coup attempt, depending on who offers the explanation. Neither the intentions of the police nor the reasons why the president thought he should appear before an angry crowd of armed protestors are clear. In fact, the motivations in both uprisings are as opaque as the clouds of tear gas that sent the president scrambling for cover in a nearby hospital.

By the New York Times’ account, Correa remains an enigmatic political figure (“In Ecuador, a Leader Who Confounds His Supporters and Detractors Alike,” 10/10/10), and his recent actions have done nothing to clarify his underlying political philosophy or motivations. Nevertheless, he is more popular than ever. “He is in some ways a walking contradiction,” writes Simon Romero, but such character complexity does not trouble literary or art critics. Why does it trouble us when the complexity is unscripted?

Literature deliberately invites readers to an aesthetic experience, while news coverage that excites the passions sometimes troubles us simply because we perceive the story as less likely accurate if its exigency is transparent. But for anyone who had a reason to care about Ecuador on September 30th, our aesthetic response to the police protest that endangered President Correa’s life was guided by urgent Twitter posts and highly stylized photojournalism. In one image, an officer stands arms outstretched in a stance reminiscent of Russell Crowe’s in Gladiator. You can almost hear the officer shouting through the gas mask that renders him invincible to the tear gas, “are you not entertained?”


But intent — the officers’, the photographer’s, the President’s, the storytellers’ — is always contested, and alleged motivations are par for the course when it comes to interpreting events with such high stakes. Art critics would have as much to say as foreign correspondents covering the events in Ecuador, where this is but the latest mixture of violence and performance art to reach the international stage.

At the first event, I stood across the street from the manifestation for more than half an hour with others who were making their way home from work. When I asked fellow onlookers why the students were protesting, most shrugged their shoulders. The contretemps sustained some passersby interest just long enough for them to figure out where they might catch the bus if not here. There was an underlying sense of calm in the midst of this chaos and a shared understanding that it was a performance, but a performance that many were tired of. Both the police and the students tacitly acknowledged a public relations struggle as much as a physical struggle.

During Correa’s standoff with the police, I stood by my laptop, watching updates pour into my Twitter stream from El Comercio, Quito’s largest newspaper, and one brave Quiteña journalist in particular who posted videos and updates from the scene using her camera phone.

Moments before being tear gassed by the very police force that is ordinarily in charge of his security, Correa climbed above a crowd of angry, protesting officers and pulled his shirt away from his chest, screaming, “if you want to kill the president, here he is! Kill him, if you want to! Kill him if you are brave enough!” Ariel Dorfman, the Chilean playwright whose masterpieces document the terror of Pinochet’s power seizure, would have a difficult time staging a more dramatic scene.

Students at the university, members of Ecuador’s scandalized police force, and even President Correa may object to events in which lives were risked and lost being depicted as theatre. But life in such high-pressure moments is nothing less than art, calling on us to deliver the lines of the character we have developed all our life. If it were any less, Mr. President, then why the Homeric chest thumping?

 

Technology-related advice on traveling to Quito, Ecuador

Although my focus here is on traveling from the U.S. to Quito, much of what I recommend applies elsewhere in South America, indeed in much of the world.

Iglesia de la CompañaThere’s WIFI everywhere. Ecuador is in the middle of an exciting explosion of Internet access, and you’ll see netbooks advertised daily in newspapers and magazines. That said, feel free to bring a laptop, iPhone, iPad or whatever else you want to use to get online. In fact, having one will make it very easy for you to communicate with the States. Here’s the caveat — bring a good lock for a laptop and make sure you keep up with anything else that’s portable and valuable. Once down here, keep the laptop in a safe or always locked up, depending on your living situation, when you’re not using it. There’s not much of a laptop-in-café culture down here, and that’s probably because laptop thefts are so common. If you are the kind of person who does like to use a laptop at a café, stop by Nocion Café, at Foch y Seis de Deciembre. A little place, painted orange, the owners are a friendly young couple. You’ll see netbooks and MacBooks side by side in this café. And their espresso is fantastic.

For calling the US, I strongly recommend setting up a Google Voice account (and learning to use it) and then a Skype phone number. The Skype number is a paid feature of Skype’s otherwise free services, but it’s not that expensive (ca. $20 for three months?) and it attaches a phone number to your Skype account. This is a way for people in the US to call you without paying international fees. You set up the number with whatever area code you want, so for some people, this will just be a local call.

Of course, you can still use Skype to connect with other Skype users (for voice, video, and text chat), but now you also have a number that friends and family can call from their phones and connect to you on Skype.

Add Google Voice to the mix, and you have a way to call any phone number in the US (and Canada) for free. It’s hard to explain how Google Voice works if you aren’t familiar with it, but basically you tell Google Voice (via its website) who you want to call and which phone number of yours you want it to use (in this case, the Skype number), and Google Voice connects your laptop with the phone number you want to call. I set this up for business (since I am working while down here), and it has also been useful for keeping in touch with family. The catch with Google Voice is that you have to register for it, and you have to register while you’re in the US. You can’t sign up for it once you’re down here. But, if you signed up for it ahead of time, it will work while you’re down here.

Speaking of geographically restricted content, Amazon digital downloads, Pandora, Hulu, and Crackle don’t work outside the US. The iTunes Store and Joost will work, but if you want to get access to the others, you can use a VPN or web-based proxies. They’re not as reliable (mainly because you are relying on someone else to keep them working), but when they do work, it’s just like being in the US.

For backing up your computer, I recommend Dropbox. Use the paid version if you have more than 2GB of data you want to keep backed up. It works flawlessly down here. Plus, if the unfortunate happens and your laptop is stolen, breaks, or otherwise inconveniences you, Dropbox will have all of your data accessible to you online (and ready to sync with a new computer).

A Flickr Pro account will let you create as many Sets of photos as you want, and since you can upload photos at full resolution, it’s a great online backup for your photographic recordings of your experiences. YouTube will back up any videos you take (edited or raw), within their time/GB restrictions. Use Vimeo if you have videos longer than 8minutes. The privacy settings for Flickr, Vimeo, and YouTube allow you to store videos/photos on their servers but leave them private if you want to.

For local communications, you’ll want a cell phone. Any GSM cell phone (except an iPhone purchased in the US*) will work down here. If you have one, just bring it and plan to replace the SIM card with one from an Ecuatoriano company. There are two major companies, Movistar (a division of the Spanish telecommunications company Telefónica) and Porta. Both have equivalent cost features and coverage in Quito (in my experience), but Movistar has better coverage outside of Quito. So, I went with Movistar. If you have a GSM phone and want to use it, expect to pay about $25 for a local SIM.

Because my iPhone wouldn’t work down here (see below), I bought the cheapest cell phone Telefónica would sell me ($60) with no monthly plan. Instead, I buy minutes $6 at a time. You can purchase cards with scratch-off codes to recharge your minutes or, more and more often, have your phone’s minutes magically recharged at tiendas all over town. I stop by the same places where I pop in to buy water and add $6 at a time to my phone.

*I have an iPhone and brought it with me. Sure enough, there is some kind of software lock on it that keeps it from working with anything but AT&T, so I was not able to use a Telefónica (Movistar) SIM card with it. I still use it on WIFI networks, but I keep it in airplane mode to keep it from roaming. Of course, you can buy an unlocked iPhone from Movistar, but plan to pay more than a grand for it.

 

ManifestHope:DC

ManifestHope: DC is the Georgetown installation of some of the most inspiring visual art produced during Barack Obama’s campaign for the presidency. Judges for this juried exhibit include Shepard Fairey, Spike Lee, and Eric Hilton (of Thievery Corporation), among others. Who says art and politics can’t mix?


ManifestHope:DC from Phillip Barron on Vimeo.

From the website:

Art plays a pivotal role in creating cultural momentum. The MANIFESTHOPE: DC Gallery celebrates that role and shines a spotlight on artists who use their voices to amplify and motivate the grassroots movement that carried President-Elect Barack Obama to victory.

MANIFESTHOPE: DC gathers together a diverse array of the nation’s most talented visual artists under one roof to mark this monumental achievement in our nation’s history and encourages artists and activists to maintain the momentum to bring about true change in the United States.

Along with its partners, MoveOn.org Political Action, the Service Employees International Union and Obey Giant, MANIFESTHOPE: DC, will issue an inspiring visual call-to-action, encouraging a redirection of public energy toward true reform in three key areas:

The MANIFESTHOPE: DC Gallery will be open to the public in Washington, DC for the days preceding the Presidential Inauguration, Saturday, January 17th, 2009 through Monday, January 19th, 2009 between the hours of 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM. Art exhibition management will be provided by our Washington, DC gallery partner, Irvine Contemporary.

 

We Are One, This Land is Your Land


We Are One, This Land is Your Land from Phillip Barron on Vimeo.

Kicking off Obama’s inauguration celebration, Pete Seeger — along with numerous other stars and artists including Bruce Springsteen, John Cougar Mellencamp, Beyonce, Usher, Stevie Wonder, U2, Herbie Hancock, Mary J. Blige, and Garth Brooks — performed at today’s We Are One celebration.

 

new arrivals

Clockwise from left: Shepard Fairey’s iconic HOPE poster, recently acquired by the National Portrait Gallery; We Are One concert/inauguration welcome event; Adams Morgan kiosk with notes to the incoming President.

 

Biking Autopia – a photoessay

In his 1973 essay ”Autopia,” Dutch novelist Cees Nooteboom wrote that Los Angeles ”mixes images of vulgarity and vitality” and ”conveys the feeling that it stretches to all sides around you, but never looks down on you or presses you down, an open world that forms itself as a unity despite its fragmented appearance.” (NYTimes)

Enjoy these photos from a recent trip, with my bike, to Los Angeles. Words to come later.

 

bike shop’s security camera captures LA temblor

 

Bicycle Film Festival, Los Angeles

The What Cheer? Brigade crashes the 2008 Bicycle Film Festival in Los Angeles. Enjoy the video, complete with a monkey playing drums, nudity, infrared, and a blinkie in the tuba.


Bicycle Film Festival, Los Angeles from Phillip Barron on Vimeo.

Ross Harris has a video of Sunday’s block party.

 

Where the Hell is Matt? (2008)


Where the Hell is Matt? (2008) from Matthew Harding on Vimeo.

An update to his 2006 and 2003 videos.

 

Please Don’t Involve Fellow Passengers In Schemes To Extort Disability Funds

DINING CAR AHEAD… reads the scrolling red-LED marquis at the front of the Coachclass car.

The northbound Carolinian, Amtrak’s train 80, follows a corridor of sweet gum, pine, and mimosa between Durham and Washington, DC. Views from the diesel-driven iron horse alternate between lush greenery grown right up to the tracks and wide landscapes of irrigated fields nurturing unnaturally straight rows of commodity corn. Queen Anne’s Lace and honeysuckle flower over rusted barrels and tired sheds, at times competing with wild raspberry. “Alexander, turn that down,” the man beside me admonishes a pre-teen sitting in the row behind.

I have the aisle seat, and in the window seat is a man who started talking to me even before I finished stowing my backpack in the overhead compartment. He sees in suburban sprawl a Babylon of limitless greed and growth, of world-class furniture and more colleges per population than anywhere else in the world.

He complains of alligators swimming the streets of New Orleans while the NAACP met in Tampa, then somehow makes the connection to his theory that Ronald Reagan enlisted the Pope to help bring down the Soviet Union. Although he desires my full attention, I catch glimpses through the window of backyard camping and front porch good-byes.

“Dad, how do they turn the train around?,” Alexander asks.

“Three-point turn,” the man laughs hard at his own joke.

When the landscape levels and lily pads appear outside the window, he resumes theorizing.

“It’s not politically correct to call them swamps anymore, you know.” He doesn’t wait for me to answer. ‘You know’ is just something he says to be polite, to acknowledge that I am sitting next to him even if he will not let me talk. “They’re wetlands. You know, we call em wetlands to show respect for all the life out there. But really we don’t care about nature if tree farms are acceptable replacements for forests. As if deer and raccoons and squirrels wanted to live with trees all lined up in straight, pretty rows. If we still had a real sense of community, not one focused on consumerism, then we might…”

“Dad, Dad,” Alexander interrupts, “this is where we get off.”

“Oh,” the theorist quickly unplugs his cell phone, climbs over me, and charges down the aisle. I slide over to the window seat.

EXIT

Between the wetlands and the tree farms are post-industrial towns, variously preserving or ignoring turn of the century architecture. In the front yard of a brick ranch style house in eastern North Carolina, an elderly woman push-mows her lawn. In a few of the towns, the ranches face the railroad, with driveways crossing the tracks. In the smallest of towns, the ones at which our train neither stops for new passengers nor even slows, ornate Victorian houses, owned by someone who has forgotten how to paint (if owned by anyone at all) deteriorate before our eyes. They look as though they may not be standing the next time the train rolls by, yet they have been standing for more than a hundred years.

The smooth, always horizontal rails defy the uneven dipping and climbing topography. Walking paths worn in the grass wrap around the “No Trespassing” signs that separate town from railway-owned fishing holes. Rivers are not the blue ribbons of childhood geography class but spectrums of dull shades from light brown banks to deep green channels of lethargic water.

The Carolinian passes corn and soybean fields whose products grow more precious with every foot that the Mississippi River climbs and exponentially so with every levee it breaks through.

To hear Lyle Estill tell the story of our future, it won’t be long before the corn grown along these tracks will be used to make biodiesel to power the Carolinian along with Volkswagen turbo-diesels and John Deere tractors. British polemicist George Monbiot demurs, “the superior purchasing power of drivers in the rich world means that they will snatch food from people’s mouths. Run your car on virgin biofuel and other people will starve.”

RESTROOMS IN REAR OF CAR…

“I was getting $14.40 an hour, last time I got paid. Yes ma’am. I’m moving back home, back in with my parents, so that someone will be around when I fall and need help getting up.”

The con artist who now sits next to me uses one of her cell phones to file a claim for disability. She offers up the details of a cancer-and-lupus diagnosis to the bureaucrat on the other end of the phone, detailing hair loss and her doctor’s proclamation that she will no longer be able to work.

“Whassup brah. Did I get you out of bed? Yeah, I’m on my way back from North Carolina. Listen, do you think we can be out of there tomorrow? Like, did you clean yet? You know I’m not cleaning up Andrea’s shit.”

With the other phone, she firms up plans with a roommate to move into a new apartment in Alexandria, Virginia and finish her summer job loading boxes for Fed Ex.

PLEASE BE CONSIDERATE OF FELLOW PASSENGERS WHEN USING CELL PHONES…

She’s enrolled at NC State, Howard University, or George Washington, depending on who is on the other end of the phone. Her ailments are being cared for by doctors in Alexandria and Raleigh and the prayer list at her mother’s church’s. By the end of her conversations, my fellow Amtrak passengers and I know more more about her than we should know about any stranger, and yet really we don’t know anything at all. I imagine that I see, just a glint in their eyes, that they feel as complicit in something awry as I do.

PLEASE DON’T INVOLVE FELLOW PASSENGERS IN SCHEMES TO EXTORT DISABILITY FUNDS…