Fair Trade’s Narrative

bosque nuboso

An Ecuadorian cloud forest is not so different from a temperate rain forest in North Carolina. To live in either means the chance to wake up each morning to beautifully thick swaths of life-carrying mist. To farm in either is to understand what makes mountain forests unique. The soil, the weather patterns in mountain climates, the effects of altitude on temperature all determine what crops can grow sustainably in a given region.

The slopes of North Carolina’s Appalachians grow ornamental evergreens and fruit trees. The slopes of Ecuador’s Andes grow ornamental ferns and coffee. Really, these alpine farmers’ lives are not so different. Yet without some connection, one may never know anything about the other.

It is the power of narrative that brings these two lives together. But where a writer’s narrative brings them together in word only, Fair Trade’s narrative materially connects people on opposite ends of the world.

The industrial agricultural model distances the consumer from the producer. Grocery store shoppers won’t know the plight of coffee farmers in Latin America as long as we coffee drinkers buy from big-corporate coffee conglomerates. That’s because big-corporate coffee collects its beans indiscriminately from fazendas throughout the world; the farmer does not matter as an individual, but only as a lowest-possible-cost cog in the machinery of supply.

The Fair Trade standard, on the other hand, certifies that coffee’s production is both economically sustainable and morally responsible. By establishing livable standards for coffee workers, Fair Trade rehumanizes food growth and distribution. It renders an otherwise opaque process transparent and empowers coffee farmers by offering a business model alternative to the exploitative corporate juggernauts.

By reshaping the coffee industry, Fair Trade rewrites coffee’s story from dirt to cup. The Fair Trade certification guarantees workers fair wages for labor, safe work environments, health care, and participation in a democratic co-operative. Fair Trade advertises its product by announcing the humane conditions its seal requires. It lets consumers know that they will not be party to human rights abuses, land grabs, and mistreatment of workers.

In this way, Fair Trade itself is a narrative. It is a mechanism for replacing the stories of abuse, corruption, and corporate exploitation surrounding coffee with stories of empowerment, self-determination, and respect. On these grounds, Fair Trade coffee is tackling poverty in Latin America.

One of the reasons that consumers are willing to pay more for Fair Trade products than big-corporate products is not just that single-origin coffee tastes better, but also that Fair Trade connects consumers’ lives with farmers’ lives. The traditional corporate model, shrouded in secrecy, diverts consumers’ attention to either the low cost of the product or its universal availability. This diversion is strategic; it obscures the miserable working conditions of the laborers who are exposed to dangerous chemicals, denied health care, and denied access to education.

French press

Fair Trade’s power is in its explanation. By telling a coherent story, the world learns more about where coffee comes from, under what conditions (environmental and labor) the beans grow, and what the political lives of growers are like. Fair Trade companies are not afraid to remind consumers that people grow coffee. These people have hopes, families, and principles just like anyone else. The demand for Fair Trade coffee indicates, I think, that when consumers have more information, we make better decisions.

As a writer, I believe in the power of reason and dialogue to change the world. The Fair Trade movement, including but not limited to the economy of coffee, is an example of this power. Fair Trade makes sense. In many ways, Fair Trade is the common sense of global business: by paying farmers a fair price for products, consumers contribute to both a humane business model and a stable supply of goods.

In the wake of state sponsored violence in Quito, Ecuador or contentious elections in Venezuela, Fair Trade’s success is newsworthy simply because it represents economic stability and political empowerment. Fair Trade tells the palatable story of another Latin America. This is a Latin America where the change we all hope for is happening. This is a Latin America where farmers are able to employ themselves — to own their own land and care for it in a way that preserves the cultural history and ecological diversity of the region. This is a Latin American rising out of poverty.

Fair Trade takes those brave and necessary steps toward redistributing global wealth in a responsible, sustainable way by empowering farmers with small operations to compete in a global industry. And besides, doesn’t your coffee taste better when you know that it has a part in moral and financial liberation?

(This article originally appeared at OpeEdNews.com)

 

best of both coasts



best of both coasts, originally uploaded by nicomachus.

I’m still adjusting to west coast life — the ocean being on the left, the market closing at 1, 30% humidity — but some transitions are easier than others. Having Peet’s coffee and the New York Times together in the same place is, well, magical.

 

Not all coffee is the Same

On Ecuador’s Pacific coast, high striated cirri fold in the sky like wrinkles of dry snow on a fallow western Massachusetts field. Boys launch fishing boats in the surf, standing in the hull and pushing their craft forward with poles that sink into the sand. And somewhere between, where the sea’s horizon meets the sky, the sun sinks behind a miles-wide cumulonimbus gray piece of the aerial ocean, trimmed in orange while hummingbirds, black butterflies, and habitual walkers glide back and forth in view from this hammock before the world. The setting sun’s pink pushes upward where it scatters into a few formless patches of unfolded cirrus snow.

Once each wave climbs as high on the beach as it can and begins to slide back into the ocean, it meets the next wave and churns sand and water into a chocolate milk that quickly dissolves into cappucino foam.

I have not had a decent coffee all week.

If you are ever in Same, Ecuador (pronounced sah-may) – a beautifully rustic, quiet beach town on Ecuador’s coast – here’s fair warning. Not a single establishment, neither restaurant nor bar nor hotel, serves espresso. Add to this, like in most of Chile, Nescafé passes for coffee. So if you ask “¿Tiene café negro?” and the person responds “si,” clarify whether they count water-soluble coffee-flavored crystals as equal to ground roasted beans. In a country full of coffee trees, the coastal preference for Nescafé is baffling.

But in case you find yourself in the Same situation, that is in a kitchen with no coffee machine, no stove top espresso maker, nor even a french press, here’s what you can do.

Whether or not you’re staying in the sprawling cliff-side Casa Blanca complex, visit La Tienda, a well-stocked general store on the Mediterranean inspired property.

Avoid the following
bad idea Café Filtrado: I’ve always wondered why, if coffee is just hot water run over ground beans through a filter, a cup of coffee could not be brewed just like a cup of tea. Given my dire outlook, I was willing to try this. It sounds like a good idea, but it is ruined in its execution. I like a strong cup of java, and doubling and quadrupling the number of prescribed bags per cup of nearly-boiling water only resulted in a stronger, more awful flavor.

another bad ideaSuperior Café Gran Colombiano: This simpler bag of roasted, ground coffee has an alkaline flavor that sits at the other end of the spectrum of what I expect coffee to taste like.

Espanol coffeeMy best cups of coffee came from individualized packets of ground coffee called Español. While you’re at La Tienda, pick up Scott napkins with the blue elephant and other psychedelic designs. One packet makes a good, strong cup of coffee.

Anyone else have a desperate coffee story?

WARNING: inevitably this is a three-handed affair, and depending on who is pouring the boiling water and who is holding the napkin-cum-coffee filter, there is the slight chance of scalding an understanding friend. Cuidado.

N.B. The classy, bat-bearing Bacardi coasters come free with a 750cm³ bottle of liquid happiness.

 

Periodic Tables


Join me tomorrow, Tuesday, December 9th, 7pm at Broad Street Café to talk about Oscar Pistorius (aka the blade runner), the Six-13, Michael Phelps, the Adidas Innovation Team, and other controversies in the world of sports.

It’s part of the Museum of Life and Science’s new Periodic Tables, Science Café talks.

 

Bike to Work Day, 2007

 

cycleart — bike themed art show

Heck Yeah Coffee and Arleigh (of arsbars) are sponsoring a bike themed art show in Charlotte. Submissions due January 12th — contact Arleigh for more info.

Nice to see another bike themed art show. The Altered Esthetics show this summer was a great success.

 

durham, where’s the community cafe?

Cafés make me happy. Or, maybe just café makes me happy.

Either way, I know what I like, and I have an easy time falling in love with cafés when I visit other places. But I’m having a hard time finding one to love in my own hometown. I’m not so sure it’s a “grass is always greener” problem.

Whether I’m sitting alone or there to talk with others, cafés are the places that best facilitate conversation. But around here, café conversations take place pretty much only through electronic media. Don’t get me wrong, I’m often sitting behind a glowing laptop screen in local cafés, feeding my addictions to both coffee and the Internet, but is that all people can do in third places anymore? Predominant noises in local cafés include clickity-click-clack or only half of a quietly shouted cell-phone conversation.

I want to know, where’s the café…
… where the old coots rant about politics on Saturday morning?
… that’s dimly lit with mismatched furniture and it’s all so comfortable you don’t want to leave?
… with tables and floors made of real wood?
… where the volume strikes the right balance of overhead music (usually jazz) and the buzz of conversations?
… whose patrons are more likely long-time residents rather than four-year transients studying for a bachelors?
… where people who have not gathered for a book club can still talk about books just because they’re well-read?
… where they serve more straight-up coffees and espressos and fewer watered down candy drinks (mochaccinos and lattes)?
… where the walls are decorated by local artists’ works?

Durham needs a place like this. A cross between the clientele of Cup A Joe in Raleigh and the atmosphere of Tate St. Coffee in Greensboro.

 
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